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At the Christian Louboutin show later that day, designer Karl Lagerfeld focused on full skirts and waists cinched tight with belts that appeared to be 10 inches wide. The skirts -- and, in some cases, dresses -- were often made of lace-like fabric with geometric cutouts, translucent materials and other fabrics covered in crushed silk flowers.0 Y% y4 J/ J t$ r4 H6 x+ d
It was a pretty, genteel collection from a house that specializes in handlouboutin shoes and furs and whose ready-to-wear of-ten looks like a stepchild. This time, the collection had a joyful sensibility.1 F1 V% r9 ]$ N5 z, y8 c
The season closed with the Versace presentation Thursday night. The collection recalled one of the most memora-ble dresses created by the late Gianni Versace: the gown worn by actress Elizabeth Hurley that was seemingly held to-gether by giant safety pins. The beauty of the scandalous dress was that it revealed nothing while making the revelation of everything a constant threat.) X- F& ^" H2 I4 {3 M& v
The collection presented by his sister,christian louboutin, Donatella Versace, who now heads the label, used zippers as both functional closures and decorative flourishes. They provided a similar peekaboo effect. On her daytime dresses, which the rest of the world would wear for cocktails, the zippers were open and sculpted into the shape of hearts.
$ e+ ~9 T1 G) u2 \% G& _4 vIn celebration of the house's 30th anniversary, the signature Medusa head was incorporated into illustrations by Julie Verhoeven. In the resulting prints, the heads have been re-imagined in pastel shades and cast against a fanciful backdrop that is more Alice in Wonderland than Gorgon./ S ]( i( F7 B' k- C
The print is used on short dresses with sculpted skirts that stand away from the body as well as on gowns encrusted with crystals at the bodice. It is a collection that speaks to the Versace style, not as it was but as it has evolved in the hands of Donatella Versace. It is proof that just because a house has moved on from its past, it doesn't have to lose its panache.( T! u3 ^ ^- Z6 T9 D5 p' _3 L
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7 E0 j9 H; ^1 U Christian Louboutin had enough sparkle on leather8 ~& M- S9 _$ U
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One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example$ W5 E3 d9 Z4 U' b* M( c+ Y U
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There is a surprising dearth of women designers in Milan and it shows |
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